February 28th – March 3rd OAHU
Arriving to Oahu from Munich and Warshaw. Couchsurfing for 3 nights in a Mormon family with 10 children. Kids between the age of 14 and 18 do not attend the school, studying home alone and playing video games.
March 3th – 5th MOLOKAI
I have stayed for three days in Kaluapapa in a leprosy colony with Eric. This is the guy I have met on the airplane to Seychelles one year before. At that time he went to explore with a National Geographic team the impact of global warming on an archipelago. He invited me to visit him and I came. I have enjoyed the special atmosphere and beauty of this place. It was really nice of Eric helping me out
March 6th MAUI
I woke up at a Slovak couchsurfer’s place Jano. We had an interesting discussion about Slovak parliamentary election results, where he presented his skepticism related to corruption in our country. His sons, wife and a huge dog were really nice. They came to Maui because of green card won in the lottery. Based on Jano’s recommendations I have borrowed a cheap car for 25 USD a day from another Slovak guy and drove it to Kihei to find out about surfing course. It seemed to cost too much, and Jano told me, there might be a Czech guy who would teach me for free, so I planned to wait. I stayed at the beach and saw my first turtle swimming in the ocean. Then I went direction Lahaina. On the way there I saw some people camping on the cost, so thought I will camp there as well. I turned the car around and something unexpected happened. In Kaanapali on the side of the road walked a man with his backpack. I saw him already a couple of hours ago walking, so I said to myself to stop and ask him for a ride. He said yes, and also that he was also looking for a place to stay for that evening. So we have found a great place to stay in a little bay on some rocks. He put his hammock, and since he was so experienced from his scout times, helped me greatly with building of my tent. Then we went to a resort to use Spa, even if we were not guests. Matt Muench, that was his name, found a fishing gear in our campsite and said it will be our permit since- it is a law in Hawaii, if you are fishing, you can be also on a beach even if it is a private property. Matt is a limo business founder in LA and we had great discussions about the life during all our trip. We said we are here for our mums to bring the good news, that everything happens for a reason and karma influences that, and that it is great to run an own business and follow your dreams. He said I should work with people.
We wake up after a painful night. Matts hammock didn´t withstand his weight and he finished on rocks. Luckily, he didn´t hit his head and seemed to be alright. In my case it was worse. When I was coming back to my tent, I slipped, put my hand on the floor and felt immediate pain. Two dots of blood showed that I got bitten by something. It was short after midnight when I called a medical assistance. They wouldn´t help on phone, but at least confirmed there were no snakes on the islands. So I tried to google some help. I had no access to warm water, so the only thing which could have helped was my urine. So I applied it four times. That helped a bit, but the whole night I was twisting from the pain. I could not leave my hand in one position for more then five seconds. After twelve hours there was almost no pain anymore and I was very happy about it. In the morning we swam and have seen turtles around. We started a loop around western part of Maui. We have seen a blow hole and natural hot pots with fish inside. We swam there as well. The road was very tight, we have seen a school bus with a lady driving really fast. We had a great lemonade and did a short hike at the cliffs. In the late afternoon we finished the loop, Matt almost caught a fish on our permit. A big storm came- wind and rain. We went to Pahia, where Matt built both tents while I was waiting in the car. He got completely wet, but did a great job, and I was really thankful for his help. I slept good.
We had breakfast in Pahia. Because of lack of space I sat down at the table with a girl which didn’t want to have any company, wanted be solo. Matt said to me later on he didn’t like her. We went to Haleakala in the afternoon seen the sunset, and put the tent in the camping in a high of 6000 feet. We have got to know some Canadians and a guy working for national parks in Hana with his girl and her brother. matt prepared cookies, but one of Canadiens brushed already his teeth. Interesting advices about travelling in Maui, nice people.
I slept only two hours. Without sleeping bag it was very cold, I have put everything on myself and put my legs in my backpack. Woke up 4:45am to see the sunrise at the summit. It was great, we did also a short hike down the crater. We come back to Kahului and switch my car with a Jeep- 60 USD a day. The road to Hana can start. Windy but a sunny day. Desert and lava on the south side of the island. We camp in a place 30 ,im before Hana. Couldn´t find the exact place based on a recommendation- 7 tables. But Matt still likes it. We went to the town o get some groceries and charge our phones. Met a couple hijhiking, brought them to Hana and back, in exchange we had a hot shower after 3 days. A beautiful girl living with her little son in the house. We met that night a group of strange people on drugs and fighting between each other. One girl wanted to have sex.
Matt went to Hana alone to charge his phone. I swam in a great place just at the camping, protected from big waves. He came back in the afternoon, and we hiked to the waterfall. We meet Uuu, the Korean girl staying in Hilton with her mum. i dropped her because of stones while taking pictures. Shower in the waterfall. Matt yelling Haleakala. We pack and look for a black sand beach camping. No success, so we ate a local pizza. A lizard drinking Matt’s beer. After a lot of struggle we find a place to camp not far from red sand beach.
Woke up at sunrise and enjoy red sand beach just with Matt. Swimming with a lot of fish, but big waves. Pack up, ticket for the Jeep owner because of lack of control of his vehicle. Bad bfast with a unfriendly girl. Heading back to Kahului through 600 curves and 50 bridges. In one bay we decide to try our 4wheels, get stucked. Free after one hour, children screaming, rain and late for the car rental. We leave the car without inspection around 2 pm and open our office at Starbucks. We booked the flights to Big island. Walking one hour to a beach near the airport, Matt likes to walk, I do less..
March 12th BIG ISLAND
Good sleep, beautiful yellow sand beach. We walk to the airport and catch our flight to Kona. We meet Australian travellers- couple. They bring us to a famous poke place, and then to Marriott in Kona. I booked it for 3 nights- 105000 points. The best room direction ocean and traditional Hula dances. Matt sleeps in the afternoon, I am the beach meeting group of Christians, and a successful Russian man with his wife. They have 10 children, 4 businesses in Alaska, 1 in Seattle and one in Hawaii. I never make it for a training 6am for vesseling.
Staying in Kona. We go to sleep late- after 1am, and wake up late. Matt and I enjoy fries with cheese and bacon in a restaurant. There we meet two great people. We go with them to karaoke where we reopen the bar. Cheap beer and great company, finishes with an incident with Japanese Chinese. On the way back to hotel aggressive Japanese with his girlfriend. matt is super cool, and doesn’t let to provoke himself. The couple takes us next day to a bay where we swim and explore a lava tube. At night karaoke with more people. The last night I try salsa, I come to late but get to know one interesting girl Sasha. We never meet again.
I hijhike to Kona Marina, Matt walks. Until he comes, I do a hike through the park and get to know a person which will come to Munich to sell camping gear. He gives me water and a bag, nice guy. I get to know my Manta tour was cancelled, I found an alternative, which costs 65 instead of original 90 USD. Matt finds campsite in the meantime, beach full of turtles. Mantas are amazing, one ran into my knee. They are not dangerous, we are dangerous for them. They can get infection. 12 Mantas, also 3m bride. We put artificial light, which attracts plankton thus fish and Mantas. Dinner is a delicious bowl of a clam chowder.
We pack, have bfast at the harbor gas station and start to hijhike. My hijhinking „adventure“ sign hells again and we get Polina. She is heading to Pahoa to yoga retreat. So we suggest to change our programm from exploring lava tubes to realize Matts dream- Mona Kea. She agrees. While driving she changes her plan and wants to explore the island with us. she has rented the car for three days. We are heading north. We check out Hapuna and Spencer beach park. We do some snorkelling. Coming all the way to Hawi and meet Ted. He is a tractor driver, I know him from his brother Bill which I met in Molokai. He has some interesting stories to tell, about the king Kameamea and others, but sadly the only one who understands is Matt. i never got a chance to translate the story by Matt. Dinner at local Mexican restaurant, and heading to our first camping together. We sleep at Lapahaki state park? Do finally a camp fire and Polina founds a sacred place with cats. Christian group arrives and asks us for fire, we give it to them and go with them. They sing some boring songs, I am upset from their church and something hits my head from the tree. I go to sleep at one, Polina with Matt talk till late. Christians went to sleep around five.
We come to Hawi 10:30, missed the meeting with Ted at 8, but he finds us anyways. After breakfast Polina disappears, she is not a fan of Ted. We head further north towards the first valley. We walk down and cross the river. Matt doesn’t catch the right wave and finishes almost all wet. Beautiful forest with tents and primitive wooden houses. Polina stays while me and Matt go for a hike to see the second valley. Very muddy, but great view at the top. We grab Polina and walk back to the car. After a discussion we head towards Hilo. Beautiful sunset, I get to know Marta from Latvia with her mum. She stays in Marriott Mona Kea beach, I try to reach her later, but no success. We come to Waimea, walk out from an expensive restaurant and find one more affordable. We meet a drank girl which gives us contacts to stay at her place, but then disappears and we never meet her again. Food delicious and plenty, I had all meet, great choice. We sleep at a great place with waves called Laupahoehoe beach park. It rains every 20 minutes, today and also the next day. I go to sleep, Matt and Polina enjoy the game of ocean.
We pack and enjoy a huge tree at the campsite. We continue our journey towards Hilo doing e Scenic route. We swim naked in the waterfall. Matt and Polina go to explore the tunnel against the stream. Luckily no injuries, Polina had some problems with her knee before. Some people are making a movie about a guy dressed like a cat. We skip botanical garden, because we are hungry. Come to Hilo and eat our first poke at Suisans. Was very tasty. We walk in the japanese gardens. Heading to look for a campsite. We build our tents, Matt wants to be close to the ocean, for me is too windy. I go to sleep, very tired. He goes with Polina to explore the Hilo tavern, good thing to do on Saturday night. Wakes me up at 3:20am, their tent is stolen. They go to police, I cannot fell asleep for two hours, so I read a book.
They come back at eight, very tired. No success, tent is gone with various belongings, worth estimated 600 USD. I drive to bring back the car to Kona. The owner is very kind, but has no more cars for us available, because of spring break. Hi drives us to Starbucks. Everybody is busy with some private things, I decide to book Marriott Autograph Collection at Mona Kea for the night. They are to slow so I decide to head out, want to enjoy the hotel. Costs 40000 points. i have still 25000 left.. I go to Walmart and buy some groceries for the evening. Start to hijhike on a great place, sign Adventure is a big success. One guy gives me a delicious and still warm mexican food. After I eat, a nice girl stops and gives me a ride all the way to the hotel. She lives on half way, but does extra 25 miles for me. Moreover, she shows me really quick the white sand beach after the airport. Hotel is amazing, I wash my tent, dry it out and go for a swim in the ocean. Try body boarding, a lot of fun. Dinner is poor from a tin, I almost vomit it back. Matt and Polina never arrive, unsuccessful with hijhiking stay for a night in a beautiful campground at hut in Kona marina. They drink my champain. And usually they eat a big part of my cookies behind my back, having fun. Enjoy guys!
Had a good sleep in bad, enjoy the parrots and beach again. I have again one of the best rooms of the hotel, shower and room are divided with a glass, huge terrace facing the ocean. Sunny morning, late checkout at 3pm. I take the bus to Hilo with hotel employees, air conditioned, some claim the coldest place in Big Island. Bus driver doesnt charge me for a luggage, and tells me great info about bus driving in Big Island and other info. Receives 2 USD tips. Matt comes with Polina also with a bus, maybe 2 hours later. While I wait, I book a hostel for my last two nights in Big Island. i go there in person, and meet Guy and his wife Pavlin. They do workaway, so I think Matt should meet them later on to get some info. The rest of Ohana arrives and we meet Dave, super nice car rental with its car for 25 USD a day. Matt found it on internet on Craigslist, when the rates were 80 USD on average. That´s why we came again back to Hilo. With a help of the bus driver I made a plan for the next days. We go to sleep to one of our best campsites, also with electricity and private waterfall! It is called Kolekole beach park and is under the bridge. Matt and Polina sleep in a new tent and sleeping bags purchased in Walmart in Kona this morning.
We wake up after a good sleep and enjoy swimming in the waterfall, of course naked. A lady comes with her dog, we throw a stick for him. We pack and go to see commercial Akaka waterfall for 1 USD. All he fences and Japanese tourists make the place looking like Disneyland. We drive through Hilo to Volcano, stop to see some cliffs and for breakfast. Me and Polina again Poke, Matt wants to try something different. We drive to Volcano, where I piss into a steam vent. We skip the hike inside of a volcano, cause Polina have some stomach issue and it gets dark. We go to museum and observe the red shining lava in the crater far away. We drive 40 min to a campground, the rain is poring. We want to sleep all together, I help Matt to build the tent. I scream open the gate and they both laugh like crazy. i piss out the tent while sleeping. matt gave me his sleeping bag and enjoys my linen. It rains into the tent and Polina prays. matt goes to sleep at 5:45 to the car.
I slept good, Matt is very tired. Water in the tent under the air mattrace. We try to dry something, sun comes out. But after breakfast comes some rain again. We wanted to do the hike, but Matt is too tired, so we go to Puna region. We visit a Park with lava trees, snorkel in Isaac Beach park- I swim with a turtle, and go to Uncle Roberts in Kalapana. Matt and Polina enjoy the walk with full moon on the ocean. I stay alone and wait for them. Happy to go to sleep, we camp in a place with hot water springs. Polina and I go to swim there at night, Matt the next morning.
We go to black sand beach, green sand beach and South point. Difficult and long hike. Good we were ready for that, South point we catch the sunset and jump with Matt from the cliff. Great feeling. We look for camping back on Kona side. Polina might want to try threesome, but the Dutch people I invite ruined the mood for her. For me of course not. The rangers limit us in the camping there (Hookena beach park) so we move more north and find a place to stay at Kapahukapu-Manini beach.
Our last night camping in Hawaii turns to be the most complicated. At five in the morning the irrigation system kicks out. i go to piss, but the tree doesn’t protect me enough and I get wet. Moreover at 7:30 comes a local lady and kicks to our tents saying that in 10 minutes we have to be ready. We manage without a financial fine. We go back to Hookena to look for dolphins. We find them sleeping and swimming in the circles 200m offshore. We see some of them jumping and twisting in the air, some of them are little and protected by parents. hundreds of dolphins, great game for free. I go one more time with a body board. We stop on our way to Kona at Pu’uhouna historical park and use our annual pass the last time. It is a city of refuge, an interesting concept. French fries in Kona, 1,5 portion and the world is colorful again. I brake a business talk of Matt and he gets angry. i apologize, but it turns out I was right. We come to Hilo to the hostel at 6:59, if we came after 7pm, would have to pay much more for staying there. wild Ginger hostel is beautiful, but the owner very rigid and I have to say cheap. The personnel is great and tries to help as much as possible. We need to discuss our plan for next day, but then comes a strange girl or guy Spirit so we lose some time. i am tired so I go to sleep. matt goes with Polina to Walmart to buy some gear for our next day expedition.
We wake up early, have breakfast and depart to Waipio valley. Matts risks missing hiss flight, but wants to participate on our adventure. We make a mistake first and choose a wrong valley. The locals do not talk, but seem to be friendly. At the end we find the right way and proceed all wet against the stream of a river. We reach the waterfall and swim inside naked. It is 400m high twin waterfall. Everyone swims under it with my goggles. We head back, go a steep 25% inclined road back. Matt misses his flight, but plays his charm and manages to go with a next flight to Honolulu free of charge. He manages to take his next connection to South Korea with china airlines. I stay with Polina, we buy poke with Dave, and eat it in the hostel. We leave to Dave Matt´s tent and one sleeping bag. i build the tent for Polina behind a school in a park close to the hostel. We see a dog coming from the forest.
Everyone slept good. I had a small chat with vodka with my roommate, a hostel employee. He is from Ireland, likes to do photography and stays in Hawaii already since 3 years. Git a green card 20 years ago, married and had some babies in Seattle. Divorced. In the morning we decide to go with a new group to Rainbow waterfalls. It is composed of Chris, Shawna, her sister Pam and brother. They come from Canada, live not far from Polina. They drive us with a car. I wanted originally to stay there and read until my flight, but they want to do a program together. Polina and I jump from a rock twice. Beautiful place. We go to buy some groceries and eat on the beach. My chicken was delicious. Polina eats papaya, she likes it. We play volleyball with a nice family. After we go to search turtles, Shawna has never seen them before. After several attempts Polina finds some and we enjoy seeing them to swim in the water. We go to the airport. I never had such a nice goodbye before. Three girls hugging me like in fairy-tale. It was my best vacation. Polina takes the adventure sign and they go together to hot water pots.